We departed Shearwater at 10:00 AM for the 28 mile trip to Ocean Falls. Ocean Falls is famous for the 178 inches of rain it receives each year. The residents are sometimes referred to as the "rain people".
To quote Wikipedia, "In 1903, the Bella Coola Pulp and Paper Company surveyed the area and was impressed with the hydro power potential of the site. In 1906, following the company's acquisition of 260 acres (1.1 km2) of land, clearing began for the town and three years later, a sawmill, hospital and school were established. In 1912, the dam was erected and the pulp mill began operating." The mill went through a number of owners. In 1954 the mill was acquired by Crown Zellerbach. It was the largest paper mill in BC. By 1973, the equipment was aging and Crown Zellerbach announced they would close in the mill in March 1973. The BC provincial government acquired the mill and operated it until closing it permanently in June 1980.
Ocean Falls had a population of 3500 in the 1950s. It population dropped to 1500 in the 1970s. About 70 people remained in the 1990s. Mzany of the town's buildings have been demolished and others are abandoned and in decay. However, a small number of full time and summer residents remain who are devoted to the town.
The lifeblood of the town is the dam forming Link Lake. The dam produces hydro electric power for Ocean Falls, Shearwater, and New Bella Bella. High tension lines and underwater cables route the power to Shearwater and New Bella Bella. The surplus power is sold to a cyber currency mining operation housed in a portion of the old paper mill. There is a fish hatchery that raises Atlantic Salmon. The hatchlings are reared in pens in Klemtu BC. The mature fish are shipped to Costco for sale.
We arrived in Ocean Falls at 4:30 PM. The wind was blowing strongly which made docking a little hard. A fellow boater came to assist with our dock lines.
Once secured, we hiked through the town of Ocean Falls and up to the dam. Many of the buildings in Ocean Falls were unoccupied and some had collapsing roofs and walls.
The dam was breathtaking. Water was cascading over the dam's spillways. Link Lake was large, beautiful and tranquil. Huge pipes carried water from the dam to a power house containing water powered turbines. The dam and power station are important to the region and are being maintained.
As we walked back through town, we encountered Mark LeMarston. We asked him about the history of the town. He invited us to his home which is housed in the old fire station. We learned that he and his wife Genesis manage the Old Bank Inn. They run a small store out of their home. Genesis sells baked goods and ice cream. Mary and I each bought an ice cream cone. Mark also single handedly runs the cyber currency mining operation. To survive in Ocean Falls, you must be industrious and entrepreneurial.
Genesis is from Venezuela. Mark and Genesis lived in Venezuela for 25 years. They only left Venezuela two years ago when conditions there became unbearable. They and their three children now live in Ocean Falls along with Mark's parents. Since there is no school in Ocean Falls, they home school their three children.
We enjoyed talking with Mark and Genesis and were impressed with how hard the two of them work to make a life in Ocean Falls.
We walked a mile and a half down the power line road, to the neighboring community of Martin Valley. It is a community of single family homes where people from the mill once lived. Now it is occupied by about 25 full time residents and 75 summer residents. It is centered on the Martin River. As we walked by one of the homes, we were greeted by Darryl Becker and Diana Diaz Martinez. Darryl invited us to join them on their back deck. We spent the next four hours talking with them. Darryl was a talented Canadian ice hockey player. He travelled the world coaching and playing ice hockey. He spent 25 years living in Australia and coaching ice hockey. He returned to Canada to help his ailing mother. At her insistence, he took a vacation to Mexico where he spent several winters helping a friend remodel a spectacular home in Tulum. About two years ago he meet Diana. Diana is from Vera Cruz. and was working in Tulum. They now spend summers in Darryl's home in Ocean Falls and winters in Diana's home in Mexico.
Darryl's home is located just above the spot where the Martin River enters the bay. Salmon spawn up the river. Solitary bears search the river bank for mollusks and plants to eat. It is an amazing place to see and enjoy nature.
Shortly after we arrive, Daryll's neighbors Ken and Shelly Maddison joined us. They are full time residents of Ocean Falls. Ken come to Ocean Falls to help start the fish hatchery. When the new hatchery had trouble finding good help, Ken stayed on to help. He fell in love with Ocean Falls. He ended up working at the hatchery for twenty years. Now Ken runs the water taxi and he acts as a guide for fisherman. Ken and Shelly bought the house next to Darryl's. It was completely run down. The two of them completely remodeled it. They now live down stairs and rent out the upstairs to seasonal visitors. They bought and remodeled the two home across the street. They rent those to seasonal visitors also.
Our visit to Ocean Falls has been a highlights of our trip. Mark, Genesis, Darryl, Diane, Ken, and Shelly were interesting and inspiring. We really appreciated their generosity and companionship. We were impressed with how hard they all work to make Ocean Falls their home.
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